There is an over boost sensor, black barrel shaped thing on the firewall. You
are over stock boost so if its still connected you should hit a hard fuel cut at
11-12 psi.



That’s all it does,. Cuts the fuel if the boost goes above 12 psi. Hard cut
and a dash alarm.



Greg Downing

Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

Washington, State. USA

  <mailto:gpd323@...> gpd323@...

  <mailto:gpd323@...> gpd323@...

253-847-5785 hm

253-324-0856 cell



  spanaway-little



From: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Adam
Chovanak
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 6:32 PM
To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com; franticfour2003
Subject: Re: [323GTX] Re: 323 GTX too much boost!





Thanks for the pointer on the best port for the wastegate. I'll change that
tomorrow and will try to unseize with a bicycle pump.

More troubleshooting: I removed the overboost diaphragm (black pancake on the
firewall) from the equation and it feels the same as it has the past 2-weeks.
Good power to a point then an aggressive stumble/backfire like it's low on fuel.
My impromptu test looks like it is routinely boosting to over 15PSI as about
3500 RPM and if I get on it hard at ~4000 the boost gauge reports 25PSI
accompanied by the aforementioned stumbling. I believe the turbo wastegate is
simply stuck or modified (it's painted red, of all things). I'll mess with it a
little more tomorrow, but think it may be best to install the turbo I purchased
from Luke.

That said, does anyone have a nice hybrid turbo or a recommendation on turbo
rebuilder? Corksport mentioned a firm in Kent, WA which is near me but
recommendations would be appreciated.

Adam

--- On Thu, 12/31/09, franticfour2003 <coolgtx@...
<mailto:coolgtx%40franticfour.com> > wrote:

From: franticfour2003 <coolgtx@...
<mailto:coolgtx%40franticfour.com> >
Subject: [323GTX] Re: 323 GTX too much boost!
To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com <mailto:323gtx%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 5:21 PM



The port you are using for boost is the one intended to control the wastegate. I
would switch to that and simply plug the one so close to the compressor. I know
a lot of cars do that but I've never felt that is a good location to use for
wastegate control simply because it so far from the throttle body/intake which
is where you really want to know what exactly is the boost pressure in your
motor.

There are lots of nipples on the throttle body. I simply t off one of those for
my boost gauge.

Your car looks nice man, spend some time on here and you'll get it sorted out.

--- In 323gtx@yahoogroups. com, "Greg D" <gpd323@...> wrote:

>

> I cannot access yahoo groups. Been too long since I last went there.

>

>

>

> Send me a direct picture (s) of what you have setup for the boost gauge.

>

>

>

> Boost vacuum port should be after the throttle body.

>

>

>

> I would be highly suspect that the VJ14 could ever make 30 psi, and that you
are seeing boost while cruising makes me know the vacuum port for the boost
gauge is not in the right spot

>

>

>

> Greg Downing

>

> Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

>

> Washington, State. USA

>

> <mailto:gpd323@ ...> gpd323@...

>

> <mailto:gpd323@ ...> gpd323@...

>

> 253-847-5785 hm

>

> 253-324-0856 cell

>

>

>

> spanaway-little

>

>

>

> From: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of
Adam Chovanak

> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:46 PM

> To: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com; Greg D

> Subject: Re: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!

>

>

>

>

>

> Greg,

>

> Thanks for the quick response. I've been lurking for a little while and nice
to see locals contributing such good info. I've just uploaded photos to the
gallery which may illuminate what I have going on. The album is titled 88 323GTX
- achova and should be at: http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/323gtx/ photos/album/
1241155156/ pic/list

>

> I chose the point to collect boost fromthe aluminum pipe that also has the BOV
- downstream from the intercooler but before the throttle. The nipple is
immediately forward of the purple BOV in photo #P1010385.JPG and I believe this
port supplied pressure to the wastegate actuator from the factory. Boost air for
wastegate is now supplied by a 90 degree fitting in the outlet of the compressor
section visible in photo #P1010387.JPG.

>

> I agree that the intake manifold may show vacuum but the green turbo indicator
also comes on when the gauge reports boost. Also - this thing did grenade before
the prior owner got much use out of it so I'd like to cure this sooner-than-
later.

>

> Again - any direction would be appreciated.

>

> - Adam

>

> --- On Thu, 12/31/09, Greg D <gpd323@... <mailto:gpd323% 40earthlink. net> >
wrote:

>

> From: Greg D <gpd323@... <mailto:gpd323% 40earthlink. net> >

> Subject: FW: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!

> To: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com <mailto:323gtx% 40yahoogroups. com>

> Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 4:17 PM

>

>

>

> Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a

>

> vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is

>

> tapped into a wrong port.

>

> If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.

>

> With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day

>

> long.

>

> Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.

>

> You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with

>

> your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.

>

> Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator

>

> diaphragm is damaged or not.

>

> Greg Downing

>

> Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

>

> Washington, State. USA

>

> <mailto:gpd323@ earthlink. net> gpd323@earthlink. net

>

> <mailto:gpd323@ gmail. net> gpd323@gmail. net

>

> 253-847-5785 hm

>

> 253-324-0856 cell

>

> spanaway-little

>

> From: Greg D [mailto:gpd323@ earthlink. net]

>

> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:17 PM

>

> To: 'adam_chovanak'

>

> Subject: RE: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!

>

> Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a

>

> vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is

>

> tapped into a wrong port.

>

> If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.

>

> With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day

>

> long.

>

> Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.

>

> You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with

>

> your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.

>

> Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator

>

> diaphragm is damaged or not.

>

> Greg Downing

>

> Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

>

> Washington, State. USA

>

> <mailto:gpd323@ earthlink. net> gpd323@earthlink. net

>

> <mailto:gpd323@ gmail. net> gpd323@gmail. net

>

> 253-847-5785 hm

>

> 253-324-0856 cell

>

> spanaway-little

>

> From: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com [mailto:323gtx@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of

>

> adam_chovanak

>

> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 3:53 PM

>

> To: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com

>

> Subject: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!

>

> I recently picked up a 323 GTX and have a couple issues I'd like help with.

>

> The prior owner spent some time with performance mods and I'm trying to make

>

> sense of what's going on.

>

> For starters, it had a blown head gasket when I purchased it. I towed it to

>

> a local shop (Jerry's Small Car in Kent - Miata specialist) to have it

>

> opened up. The engine appears to have been recently rebuilt however Jerry

>

> reported it was developing 30PSI and sent me away with a strong caution... I

>

> have a boost gauge hooked up and it carries 12-18 PSI boost cruising down

>

> the highway and gently rolling on the throttle it hits 18-20 PSI where

>

> stumbles heavily. If you're at higher RPM and you hit the throttle it spikes

>

> to 25+ PSI with significant stumbling (I've just done this a few times to

>

> see what happens...)

>

> The turbo appears slightly different than OEM (I purchased an OEM turbo from

>

> member Luke - thanks, Luke!) but it does not appear particularly exotic.

>

> I've verified the plubming for the wastegate is in place and in good shape

>

> and suspect a seized wastegate. Also - for background, the car has a BOV,

>

> turbo timer, and S-AFC although the S-AFC does not appear to be hooked up.

>

> A couple questions.

>

> 1) Is wastegate seisure common and if so, is there a trick to free up (I'll

>

> try a bicycle pump shortly).

>

> 2) What's a good upper end for boost with stock injectors and intercooler?

>

> 3) Any recommendation on a logical path forward?

>

> Thanks!!

>

> Adam in Seattle

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks for the pointer on the best port for the wastegate. I'll change that
tomorrow and will try to unseize with a bicycle pump.

More troubleshooting: I removed the overboost diaphragm (black pancake on the
firewall) from the equation and it feels the same as it has the past 2-weeks.
Good power to a point then an aggressive stumble/backfire like it's low on fuel.
My impromptu test looks like it is routinely boosting to over 15PSI as about
3500 RPM and if I get on it hard at ~4000 the boost gauge reports 25PSI
accompanied by the aforementioned stumbling. I believe the turbo wastegate is
simply stuck or modified (it's painted red, of all things). I'll mess with it a
little more tomorrow, but think it may be best to install the turbo I purchased
from Luke.

That said, does anyone have a nice hybrid turbo or a recommendation on turbo
rebuilder? Corksport mentioned a firm in Kent, WA which is near me but
recommendations would be appreciated. 

Adam



--- On Thu, 12/31/09, franticfour2003 <coolgtx@...> wrote:

From: franticfour2003 <coolgtx@...>
Subject: [323GTX] Re: 323 GTX too much boost!
To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 5:21 PM







 









       The port you are using for boost is the one intended to control the
wastegate.  I would switch to that and simply plug the one so close to the
compressor.  I know a lot of cars do that but I've never felt that is a good
location to use for wastegate control simply because it so far from the throttle
body/intake which is where you really want to know what exactly is the boost
pressure in your motor.



There are lots of nipples on the throttle body.  I simply t off one of those for
my boost gauge.



Your car looks nice man, spend some time on here and you'll get it sorted out.



--- In 323gtx@yahoogroups. com, "Greg D" <gpd323@...> wrote:

>

> I cannot access yahoo groups. Been too long since I last went there.

>

>

>

> Send me a direct picture (s) of what you have setup for the boost gauge.

>

>

>

> Boost vacuum port should be after the throttle body.

>

>

>

> I would be highly suspect that the VJ14 could ever make 30 psi, and that you
are seeing boost while cruising makes me know the vacuum port for the boost
gauge is not in the right spot

>

>

>

> Greg Downing

>

> Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

>

> Washington, State. USA

>

>  <mailto:gpd323@ ...> gpd323@...

>

>  <mailto:gpd323@ ...> gpd323@...

>

> 253-847-5785 hm

>

> 253-324-0856 cell

>

>

>

>  spanaway-little

>

>

>

> From: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of
Adam Chovanak

> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:46 PM

> To: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com; Greg D

> Subject: Re: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!

>

>

>

>

>

> Greg,

>

> Thanks for the quick response. I've been lurking for a little while and nice
to see locals contributing such good info. I've just uploaded photos to the
gallery which may illuminate what I have going on. The album is titled 88 323GTX
- achova and should be at: http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/323gtx/ photos/album/
1241155156/ pic/list

>

> I chose the point to collect boost fromthe aluminum pipe that also has the BOV
- downstream from the intercooler but before the throttle. The nipple is
immediately forward of the purple BOV in photo #P1010385.JPG and I believe this
port supplied pressure to the wastegate actuator from the factory. Boost air for
wastegate is now supplied by a 90 degree fitting in the outlet of the compressor
section visible in photo #P1010387.JPG.

>

> I agree that the intake manifold may show vacuum but the green turbo indicator
also comes on when the gauge reports boost. Also - this thing did grenade before
the prior owner got much use out of it so I'd like to cure this sooner-than-
later.

>

> Again - any direction would be appreciated.

>

> - Adam

>

> --- On Thu, 12/31/09, Greg D <gpd323@... <mailto:gpd323% 40earthlink. net> >
wrote:

>

> From: Greg D <gpd323@... <mailto:gpd323% 40earthlink. net> >

> Subject: FW: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!

> To: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com <mailto:323gtx% 40yahoogroups. com>

> Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 4:17 PM

>

>

>

> Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a

>

> vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is

>

> tapped into a wrong port.

>

> If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.

>

> With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day

>

> long.

>

> Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.

>

> You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with

>

> your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.

>

> Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator

>

> diaphragm is damaged or not.

>

> Greg Downing

>

> Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

>

> Washington, State. USA

>

> <mailto:gpd323@ earthlink. net> gpd323@earthlink. net

>

> <mailto:gpd323@ gmail. net> gpd323@gmail. net

>

> 253-847-5785 hm

>

> 253-324-0856 cell

>

> spanaway-little

>

> From: Greg D [mailto:gpd323@ earthlink. net]

>

> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:17 PM

>

> To: 'adam_chovanak'

>

> Subject: RE: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!

>

> Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a

>

> vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is

>

> tapped into a wrong port.

>

> If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.

>

> With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day

>

> long.

>

> Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.

>

> You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with

>

> your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.

>

> Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator

>

> diaphragm is damaged or not.

>

> Greg Downing

>

> Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

>

> Washington, State. USA

>

> <mailto:gpd323@ earthlink. net> gpd323@earthlink. net

>

> <mailto:gpd323@ gmail. net> gpd323@gmail. net

>

> 253-847-5785 hm

>

> 253-324-0856 cell

>

> spanaway-little

>

> From: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com [mailto:323gtx@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of

>

> adam_chovanak

>

> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 3:53 PM

>

> To: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com

>

> Subject: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!

>

> I recently picked up a 323 GTX and have a couple issues I'd like help with.

>

> The prior owner spent some time with performance mods and I'm trying to make

>

> sense of what's going on.

>

> For starters, it had a blown head gasket when I purchased it. I towed it to

>

> a local shop (Jerry's Small Car in Kent - Miata specialist) to have it

>

> opened up. The engine appears to have been recently rebuilt however Jerry

>

> reported it was developing 30PSI and sent me away with a strong caution... I

>

> have a boost gauge hooked up and it carries 12-18 PSI boost cruising down

>

> the highway and gently rolling on the throttle it hits 18-20 PSI where

>

> stumbles heavily. If you're at higher RPM and you hit the throttle it spikes

>

> to 25+ PSI with significant stumbling (I've just done this a few times to

>

> see what happens...)

>

> The turbo appears slightly different than OEM (I purchased an OEM turbo from

>

> member Luke - thanks, Luke!) but it does not appear particularly exotic.

>

> I've verified the plubming for the wastegate is in place and in good shape

>

> and suspect a seized wastegate. Also - for background, the car has a BOV,

>

> turbo timer, and S-AFC although the S-AFC does not appear to be hooked up.

>

> A couple questions.

>

> 1) Is wastegate seisure common and if so, is there a trick to free up (I'll

>

> try a bicycle pump shortly).

>

> 2) What's a good upper end for boost with stock injectors and intercooler?

>

> 3) Any recommendation on a logical path forward?

>

> Thanks!!

>

> Adam in Seattle

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Okay - that changes everything - but not sure what to make of it.

The port on the passenger side of the intake was blocked off. I teed into this
and connected the black pancake diaphragm on the firewall behind the intake. I
now have an audible alarm int he passenger compartment and now boost looks a bit
more normal. Unfortunately, drive-ability is far worse.

Now I read -25PSI at idle and neutral under light throttle. If I try to get on
the throttle at all I get the overboost audible and the car seems to simply
shut-off at about 14PSI. Much more abrupt that the sputtering that I was sensing
before. I'll be out later tonight and I'll again take the pancake diaphragm out
of the system and will see what boost is reported then.  

- Adam

--- On Thu, 12/31/09, Greg D <gpd323@...> wrote:

From: Greg D <gpd323@...>
Subject: RE: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!
To: "'Adam Chovanak'" <adam_chovanak@...>
Cc: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 5:15 PM













On the passenger side of the intake manifold is a 1 port vacuum
line used for the over boost sensor. Tap your boost gauge into that line. Then
see what it reads.

   

Next, get a new set of plug wires and spark plugs (#1095  BCPR7ES-11)
because I thing the missing could be caused by poor wires.

   

The BOV appears to be vented correctly back into the j-pipe. Good
job.

   



Greg Downing

Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

Washington, State. USA

gpd323@...

gpd323@...

253-847-5785 hm

253-324-0856 cell

 

 



   





From:
323gtx@yahoogroups.com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Adam
Chovanak

Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 5:07 PM

To: Greg D

Cc: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!





   

 







Thanks - I just loaded to my own website -
http://adamsgarage.com/gallery2/main.php/v/motor/misc-cars/88_323GTX/



The photo numbers are the same as mentioned below.



Adam Chovanak

two oh six 419.9295



--- On Thu, 12/31/09, Greg D <gpd323@...>
wrote:



From: Greg D <gpd323@...>

Subject: RE: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!

To: "'Adam Chovanak'" <adam_chovanak@...>

Cc: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com

Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 5:01 PM



I cannot access yahoo groups. Been too long since I last went

there.



 



Send me a direct picture (s) of what you have setup for the

boost gauge.



 



Boost vacuum port should be after the throttle body.



 



I would be highly suspect that the VJ14 could ever make 30 psi,

and that you are seeing boost while cruising makes me know the vacuum port for

the boost gauge is not in the right spot



 



Greg Downing



Beautiful Downtown Spanaway



Washington, State. USA



gpd323@...



gpd323@...



253-847-5785 hm



253-324-0856 cell



 



 



 



From:

323gtx@yahoogroups.com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Adam

Chovanak



Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:46 PM



To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com; Greg
D



Subject: Re: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!



 



 



Greg,



Thanks for the quick response. I've been lurking for a little while and nice to

see locals contributing such good info. I've just uploaded photos to the

gallery which may illuminate what I have going on. The album is titled 88

323GTX - achova and should be at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/323gtx/photos/album/1241155156/pic/list



I chose the point to collect boost fromthe aluminum pipe that also has the BOV

- downstream from the intercooler but before the throttle. The nipple is

immediately forward of the purple BOV in photo #P1010385.JPG and I believe this

port supplied pressure to the wastegate actuator from the factory. Boost air

for wastegate is now supplied by a 90 degree fitting in the outlet of the

compressor section visible in photo #P1010387.JPG.



I agree that the intake manifold may show vacuum but the green turbo indicator

also comes on when the gauge reports boost. Also - this thing did grenade

before the prior owner got much use out of it so I'd like to cure this

sooner-than-later.



Again - any direction would be appreciated. 



- Adam



--- On Thu, 12/31/09, Greg D <gpd323@...>

wrote:



From: Greg D <gpd323@...>



Subject: FW: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!



To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com



Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 4:17 PM



 



Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a



vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is



tapped into a wrong port.



If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.



With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day



long.



Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.



You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with



your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.



Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator



diaphragm is damaged or not.



Greg Downing



Beautiful Downtown Spanaway



Washington, State. USA



<mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net> gpd323@earthlink. net



<mailto:gpd323@gmail. net> gpd323@gmail. net



253-847-5785 hm



253-324-0856 cell



spanaway-little



From: Greg D [mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net]



Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:17 PM



To: 'adam_chovanak'



Subject: RE: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!



Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a



vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is



tapped into a wrong port.



If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.



With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day



long.



Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.



You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with



your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.



Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator



diaphragm is damaged or not.



Greg Downing



Beautiful Downtown Spanaway



Washington, State. USA



<mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net> gpd323@earthlink. net



<mailto:gpd323@gmail. net> gpd323@gmail. net



253-847-5785 hm



253-324-0856 cell



spanaway-little



From: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of



adam_chovanak



Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 3:53 PM



To: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com



Subject: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!



I recently picked up a 323 GTX and have a couple issues I'd like help with.



The prior owner spent some time with performance mods and I'm trying to make



sense of what's going on.



For starters, it had a blown head gasket when I purchased it. I towed it to



a local shop (Jerry's Small Car in Kent - Miata specialist) to have it



opened up. The engine appears to have been recently rebuilt however Jerry



reported it was developing 30PSI and sent me away with a strong caution... I



have a boost gauge hooked up and it carries 12-18 PSI boost cruising down



the highway and gently rolling on the throttle it hits 18-20 PSI where



stumbles heavily. If you're at higher RPM and you hit the throttle it spikes



to 25+ PSI with significant stumbling (I've just done this a few times to



see what happens...)



The turbo appears slightly different than OEM (I purchased an OEM turbo from



member Luke - thanks, Luke!) but it does not appear particularly exotic.



I've verified the plubming for the wastegate is in place and in good shape



and suspect a seized wastegate. Also - for background, the car has a BOV,



turbo timer, and S-AFC although the S-AFC does not appear to be hooked up.



A couple questions.



1) Is wastegate seisure common and if so, is there a trick to free up (I'll



try a bicycle pump shortly).



2) What's a good upper end for boost with stock injectors and intercooler?



3) Any recommendation on a logical path forward?



Thanks!!



Adam in Seattle



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

When trying to order JDM parts for our Mazda (meaning the facelifted BFMR
Familia) from JDM suppliers in Japan, I'm always asked for the chassis code,
even though I've supplied them with P/N's from the Japanese Mazda Familia parts
book.  This chart (attached) lists all the Familia chassis codes (3rd column),
but I can't tell which one is the facelifted BFMR Familia.  The BG BPT-engined
car is 2nd-to-last, and the GTR is last, but there are a whole lot for the 1.6,
none of which are labeled B6T.  I don't think it's the 3rd from the bottom
because I believe the VIN's will be
“E-BFMR-500001” through “E-BFMR -507692”.

 
Would you know?
Jim




For some reason that email came out all screwed up.  I've attached the chart to
this email this time.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The port you are using for boost is the one intended to control the wastegate. 
I would switch to that and simply plug the one so close to the compressor.  I
know a lot of cars do that but I've never felt that is a good location to use
for wastegate control simply because it so far from the throttle body/intake
which is where you really want to know what exactly is the boost pressure in
your motor.

There are lots of nipples on the throttle body.  I simply t off one of those for
my boost gauge.

Your car looks nice man, spend some time on here and you'll get it sorted out.



--- In 323gtx@yahoogroups.com, "Greg D" <gpd323@...> wrote:
>
> I cannot access yahoo groups. Been too long since I last went there.
>
>
>
> Send me a direct picture (s) of what you have setup for the boost gauge.
>
>
>
> Boost vacuum port should be after the throttle body.
>
>
>
> I would be highly suspect that the VJ14 could ever make 30 psi, and that you
are seeing boost while cruising makes me know the vacuum port for the boost
gauge is not in the right spot
>
>
>
> Greg Downing
>
> Beautiful Downtown Spanaway
>
> Washington, State. USA
>
>  <mailto:gpd323@...> gpd323@...
>
>  <mailto:gpd323@...> gpd323@...
>
> 253-847-5785 hm
>
> 253-324-0856 cell
>
>
>
>  spanaway-little
>
>
>
> From: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Adam
Chovanak
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:46 PM
> To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com; Greg D
> Subject: Re: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!
>
>
>
>
>
> Greg,
>
> Thanks for the quick response. I've been lurking for a little while and nice
to see locals contributing such good info. I've just uploaded photos to the
gallery which may illuminate what I have going on. The album is titled 88 323GTX
- achova and should be at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/323gtx/photos/album/1241155156/pic/list
>
> I chose the point to collect boost fromthe aluminum pipe that also has the BOV
- downstream from the intercooler but before the throttle. The nipple is
immediately forward of the purple BOV in photo #P1010385.JPG and I believe this
port supplied pressure to the wastegate actuator from the factory. Boost air for
wastegate is now supplied by a 90 degree fitting in the outlet of the compressor
section visible in photo #P1010387.JPG.
>
> I agree that the intake manifold may show vacuum but the green turbo indicator
also comes on when the gauge reports boost. Also - this thing did grenade before
the prior owner got much use out of it so I'd like to cure this
sooner-than-later.
>
> Again - any direction would be appreciated.
>
> - Adam
>
> --- On Thu, 12/31/09, Greg D <gpd323@... <mailto:gpd323%40earthlink.net> >
wrote:
>
> From: Greg D <gpd323@... <mailto:gpd323%40earthlink.net> >
> Subject: FW: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!
> To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com <mailto:323gtx%40yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 4:17 PM
>
>
>
> Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a
>
> vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is
>
> tapped into a wrong port.
>
> If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.
>
> With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day
>
> long.
>
> Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.
>
> You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with
>
> your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.
>
> Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator
>
> diaphragm is damaged or not.
>
> Greg Downing
>
> Beautiful Downtown Spanaway
>
> Washington, State. USA
>
> <mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net> gpd323@earthlink. net
>
> <mailto:gpd323@gmail. net> gpd323@gmail. net
>
> 253-847-5785 hm
>
> 253-324-0856 cell
>
> spanaway-little
>
> From: Greg D [mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net]
>
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:17 PM
>
> To: 'adam_chovanak'
>
> Subject: RE: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!
>
> Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a
>
> vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is
>
> tapped into a wrong port.
>
> If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.
>
> With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day
>
> long.
>
> Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.
>
> You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with
>
> your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.
>
> Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator
>
> diaphragm is damaged or not.
>
> Greg Downing
>
> Beautiful Downtown Spanaway
>
> Washington, State. USA
>
> <mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net> gpd323@earthlink. net
>
> <mailto:gpd323@gmail. net> gpd323@gmail. net
>
> 253-847-5785 hm
>
> 253-324-0856 cell
>
> spanaway-little
>
> From: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of
>
> adam_chovanak
>
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 3:53 PM
>
> To: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com
>
> Subject: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!
>
> I recently picked up a 323 GTX and have a couple issues I'd like help with.
>
> The prior owner spent some time with performance mods and I'm trying to make
>
> sense of what's going on.
>
> For starters, it had a blown head gasket when I purchased it. I towed it to
>
> a local shop (Jerry's Small Car in Kent - Miata specialist) to have it
>
> opened up. The engine appears to have been recently rebuilt however Jerry
>
> reported it was developing 30PSI and sent me away with a strong caution... I
>
> have a boost gauge hooked up and it carries 12-18 PSI boost cruising down
>
> the highway and gently rolling on the throttle it hits 18-20 PSI where
>
> stumbles heavily. If you're at higher RPM and you hit the throttle it spikes
>
> to 25+ PSI with significant stumbling (I've just done this a few times to
>
> see what happens...)
>
> The turbo appears slightly different than OEM (I purchased an OEM turbo from
>
> member Luke - thanks, Luke!) but it does not appear particularly exotic.
>
> I've verified the plubming for the wastegate is in place and in good shape
>
> and suspect a seized wastegate. Also - for background, the car has a BOV,
>
> turbo timer, and S-AFC although the S-AFC does not appear to be hooked up.
>
> A couple questions.
>
> 1) Is wastegate seisure common and if so, is there a trick to free up (I'll
>
> try a bicycle pump shortly).
>
> 2) What's a good upper end for boost with stock injectors and intercooler?
>
> 3) Any recommendation on a logical path forward?
>
> Thanks!!
>
> Adam in Seattle
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

On the passenger side of the intake manifold is a 1 port vacuum line used for
the over boost sensor. Tap your boost gauge into that line. Then see what it
reads.



Next, get a new set of plug wires and spark plugs (#1095  BCPR7ES-11) because I
thing the missing could be caused by poor wires.



The BOV appears to be vented correctly back into the j-pipe. Good job.



Greg Downing

Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

Washington, State. USA

  <mailto:gpd323@...> gpd323@...

  <mailto:gpd323@...> gpd323@...

253-847-5785 hm

253-324-0856 cell



  spanaway-little



From: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Adam
Chovanak
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 5:07 PM
To: Greg D
Cc: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!





Thanks - I just loaded to my own website -
http://adamsgarage.com/gallery2/main.php/v/motor/misc-cars/88_323GTX/

The photo numbers are the same as mentioned below.

Adam Chovanak
two oh six 419.9295

--- On Thu, 12/31/09, Greg D <gpd323@...
<mailto:gpd323%40earthlink.net> > wrote:

From: Greg D <gpd323@... <mailto:gpd323%40earthlink.net> >
Subject: RE: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!
To: "'Adam Chovanak'" <adam_chovanak@...
<mailto:adam_chovanak%40yahoo.com> >
Cc: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com <mailto:323gtx%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 5:01 PM

I cannot access yahoo groups. Been too long since I last went
there.



Send me a direct picture (s) of what you have setup for the
boost gauge.



Boost vacuum port should be after the throttle body.



I would be highly suspect that the VJ14 could ever make 30 psi,
and that you are seeing boost while cruising makes me know the vacuum port for
the boost gauge is not in the right spot



Greg Downing

Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

Washington, State. USA

gpd323@... <mailto:gpd323%40earthlink.net>

gpd323@... <mailto:gpd323%40gmail.net>

253-847-5785 hm

253-324-0856 cell







From:
323gtx@yahoogroups.com <mailto:323gtx%40yahoogroups.com> 
[mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups.com <mailto:323gtx%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of
Adam
Chovanak

Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:46 PM

To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com <mailto:323gtx%40yahoogroups.com> ; Greg D

Subject: Re: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!





Greg,

Thanks for the quick response. I've been lurking for a little while and nice to
see locals contributing such good info. I've just uploaded photos to the
gallery which may illuminate what I have going on. The album is titled 88
323GTX - achova and should be at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/323gtx/photos/album/1241155156/pic/list

I chose the point to collect boost fromthe aluminum pipe that also has the BOV
- downstream from the intercooler but before the throttle. The nipple is
immediately forward of the purple BOV in photo #P1010385.JPG and I believe this
port supplied pressure to the wastegate actuator from the factory. Boost air
for wastegate is now supplied by a 90 degree fitting in the outlet of the
compressor section visible in photo #P1010387.JPG.

I agree that the intake manifold may show vacuum but the green turbo indicator
also comes on when the gauge reports boost. Also - this thing did grenade
before the prior owner got much use out of it so I'd like to cure this
sooner-than-later.

Again - any direction would be appreciated.

- Adam

--- On Thu, 12/31/09, Greg D <gpd323@...
<mailto:gpd323%40earthlink.net> >
wrote:

From: Greg D <gpd323@... <mailto:gpd323%40earthlink.net> >

Subject: FW: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!

To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com <mailto:323gtx%40yahoogroups.com>

Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 4:17 PM



Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a

vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is

tapped into a wrong port.

If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.

With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day

long.

Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.

You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with

your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.

Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator

diaphragm is damaged or not.

Greg Downing

Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

Washington, State. USA

<mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net> gpd323@earthlink. net

<mailto:gpd323@gmail. net> gpd323@gmail. net

253-847-5785 hm

253-324-0856 cell

spanaway-little

From: Greg D [mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net]

Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:17 PM

To: 'adam_chovanak'

Subject: RE: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!

Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a

vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is

tapped into a wrong port.

If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.

With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day

long.

Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.

You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with

your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.

Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator

diaphragm is damaged or not.

Greg Downing

Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

Washington, State. USA

<mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net> gpd323@earthlink. net

<mailto:gpd323@gmail. net> gpd323@gmail. net

253-847-5785 hm

253-324-0856 cell

spanaway-little

From: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of

adam_chovanak

Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 3:53 PM

To: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com

Subject: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!

I recently picked up a 323 GTX and have a couple issues I'd like help with.

The prior owner spent some time with performance mods and I'm trying to make

sense of what's going on.

For starters, it had a blown head gasket when I purchased it. I towed it to

a local shop (Jerry's Small Car in Kent - Miata specialist) to have it

opened up. The engine appears to have been recently rebuilt however Jerry

reported it was developing 30PSI and sent me away with a strong caution... I

have a boost gauge hooked up and it carries 12-18 PSI boost cruising down

the highway and gently rolling on the throttle it hits 18-20 PSI where

stumbles heavily. If you're at higher RPM and you hit the throttle it spikes

to 25+ PSI with significant stumbling (I've just done this a few times to

see what happens...)

The turbo appears slightly different than OEM (I purchased an OEM turbo from

member Luke - thanks, Luke!) but it does not appear particularly exotic.

I've verified the plubming for the wastegate is in place and in good shape

and suspect a seized wastegate. Also - for background, the car has a BOV,

turbo timer, and S-AFC although the S-AFC does not appear to be hooked up.

A couple questions.

1) Is wastegate seisure common and if so, is there a trick to free up (I'll

try a bicycle pump shortly).

2) What's a good upper end for boost with stock injectors and intercooler?

3) Any recommendation on a logical path forward?

Thanks!!

Adam in Seattle

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

When trying to order JDM parts for our Mazda (meaning the facelifted BFMR
Familia) from JDM suppliers in Japan, I'm always asked for the chassis code,
even though I've supplied them with P/N's from the Japanese Mazda Familia parts
book.� This chart lists all the Familia chassis codes (3rd column), but I can't
tell which one is the facelifted BFMR Familia.� The BG BPT-engined car is
2nd-to-last, and the GTR is last, but there are a whole lot for the 1.6, none of
which are labeled B6T.
�
Would anyone know?
Jim




89.01~91.01
1600 1600
E-BG6P E-BG6P
B6 DOHC B6 DOHC
C-901

A-449





89.01~91.01
1600 1600
E-BG6S E-BG6S
B6 DOHC B6 DOHC
C-901

A-449





89.06~94.03
1600 1600
E-BG6R 4WD E-BG6R 4WD
B6 B6
C-901

A-451

FC-4503



89.06~94.03
1600 1600
E-BG6ZW 4W E-BG6ZW 4WD
B6 B6
C-901

A-451

FC-4503



94.09~96.08
1600 1600
E-BHA6R 4W E-BHA6R 4WD
B6-E B6-E
C-901

A-457





96.08~03.11
1600 1600
E-BHA6R (3 E-BHA6R (300001-) 4WD
B6-E B6-E
C-901

A-457





89.06~94.03
1800 1800
E-BG8R 4WD E-BG8R 4WD
BP-T Turbo BP-T Turbo, DOHC
C-901

A-449

JN-9081



89.06~94.04
1800 1800
E-BG8Z 4WD E-BG8Z 4WD
BP-T Turbo BP-T Turbo, DOHC
C-901

A-449

JN-9081



90.01~94.06
1800 1800
E-BG8P E-BG8P
BP DOHC �




89.01~91.01

1600�

E-BG6P

B6 DOHC B6 DOHC


89.01~91.01

1600�

E-BG6S

B6 DOHC B6 DOHC


89.06~94.03

1600�

E-BG6R 4WD

B6 B6


89.06~94.03

1600�

E-BG6ZW 4WD�

B6 B6


94.09~96.08

1600�

E-BHA6R 4WD

B6-E B6-E


96.08~03.11

1600 1600

E-BHA6R (300001-) 4WD

B6-E B6-E


89.06~94.03

1800 1800

E-BG8R 4WD

BP-T Turbo BP-T Turbo, DOHC


89.06~94.04

1800 1800

E-BG8Z 4WD

BP-T Turbo



89.01~91.01
1600 1600
E-BG6P E-BG6P
B6 DOHC B6 DOHC
C-901

A-449





89.01~91.01
1600 1600
E-BG6S E-BG6S
B6 DOHC B6 DOHC
C-901

A-449





89.06~94.03
1600 1600
E-BG6R 4WD E-BG6R 4WD
B6 B6
C-901

A-451

FC-4503



89.06~94.03
1600 1600
E-BG6ZW 4W E-BG6ZW 4WD
B6 B6
C-901

A-451

FC-4503



94.09~96.08
1600 1600
E-BHA6R 4W E-BHA6R 4WD
B6-E B6-E
C-901

A-457





96.08~03.11
1600 1600
E-BHA6R (3 E-BHA6R (300001-) 4WD
B6-E B6-E
C-901

A-457





89.06~94.03
1800 1800
E-BG8R 4WD E-BG8R 4WD
BP-T Turbo BP-T Turbo, DOHC
C-901

A-449

JN-9081



89.06~94.04
1800 1800
E-BG8Z 4WD E-BG8Z 4WD
BP-T Turbo


�

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks - I just loaded to my own website -
http://adamsgarage.com/gallery2/main.php/v/motor/misc-cars/88_323GTX/

The photo numbers are the same as mentioned below.

Adam Chovanak
two oh six 419.9295

--- On Thu, 12/31/09, Greg D <gpd323@...> wrote:

From: Greg D <gpd323@...>
Subject: RE: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!
To: "'Adam Chovanak'" <adam_chovanak@...>
Cc: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 5:01 PM













I cannot access yahoo groups. Been too long since I last went
there.

   

Send me a direct picture (s) of what you have setup for the
boost gauge.

   

Boost vacuum port should be after the throttle body.

   

I would be highly suspect that the VJ14 could ever make 30 psi,
and that you are seeing boost while cruising makes me know the vacuum port for
the boost gauge is not in the right spot

   



Greg Downing

Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

Washington, State. USA

gpd323@...

gpd323@...

253-847-5785 hm

253-324-0856 cell

 

 



   





From:
323gtx@yahoogroups.com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Adam
Chovanak

Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:46 PM

To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com; Greg D

Subject: Re: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!





   

 







Greg,



Thanks for the quick response. I've been lurking for a little while and nice to
see locals contributing such good info. I've just uploaded photos to the
gallery which may illuminate what I have going on. The album is titled 88
323GTX - achova and should be at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/323gtx/photos/album/1241155156/pic/list



I chose the point to collect boost fromthe aluminum pipe that also has the BOV
- downstream from the intercooler but before the throttle. The nipple is
immediately forward of the purple BOV in photo #P1010385.JPG and I believe this
port supplied pressure to the wastegate actuator from the factory. Boost air
for wastegate is now supplied by a 90 degree fitting in the outlet of the
compressor section visible in photo #P1010387.JPG.



I agree that the intake manifold may show vacuum but the green turbo indicator
also comes on when the gauge reports boost. Also - this thing did grenade
before the prior owner got much use out of it so I'd like to cure this
sooner-than-later.



Again - any direction would be appreciated. 



- Adam



--- On Thu, 12/31/09, Greg D <gpd323@...>
wrote:



From: Greg D <gpd323@...>

Subject: FW: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!

To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com

Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 4:17 PM



 



Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a



vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is



tapped into a wrong port.



If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.



With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day



long.



Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.



You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with



your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.



Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator



diaphragm is damaged or not.



Greg Downing



Beautiful Downtown Spanaway



Washington, State. USA



<mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net> gpd323@earthlink. net



<mailto:gpd323@gmail. net> gpd323@gmail. net



253-847-5785 hm



253-324-0856 cell



spanaway-little



From: Greg D [mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net]



Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:17 PM



To: 'adam_chovanak'



Subject: RE: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!



Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a



vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is



tapped into a wrong port.



If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.



With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day



long.



Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.



You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with



your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.



Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator



diaphragm is damaged or not.



Greg Downing



Beautiful Downtown Spanaway



Washington, State. USA



<mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net> gpd323@earthlink. net



<mailto:gpd323@gmail. net> gpd323@gmail. net



253-847-5785 hm



253-324-0856 cell



spanaway-little



From: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of



adam_chovanak



Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 3:53 PM



To: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com



Subject: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!



I recently picked up a 323 GTX and have a couple issues I'd like help with.



The prior owner spent some time with performance mods and I'm trying to make



sense of what's going on.



For starters, it had a blown head gasket when I purchased it. I towed it to



a local shop (Jerry's Small Car in Kent - Miata specialist) to have it



opened up. The engine appears to have been recently rebuilt however Jerry



reported it was developing 30PSI and sent me away with a strong caution... I



have a boost gauge hooked up and it carries 12-18 PSI boost cruising down



the highway and gently rolling on the throttle it hits 18-20 PSI where



stumbles heavily. If you're at higher RPM and you hit the throttle it spikes



to 25+ PSI with significant stumbling (I've just done this a few times to



see what happens...)



The turbo appears slightly different than OEM (I purchased an OEM turbo from



member Luke - thanks, Luke!) but it does not appear particularly exotic.



I've verified the plubming for the wastegate is in place and in good shape



and suspect a seized wastegate. Also - for background, the car has a BOV,



turbo timer, and S-AFC although the S-AFC does not appear to be hooked up.



A couple questions.



1) Is wastegate seisure common and if so, is there a trick to free up (I'll



try a bicycle pump shortly).



2) What's a good upper end for boost with stock injectors and intercooler?



3) Any recommendation on a logical path forward?



Thanks!!



Adam in Seattle



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I cannot access yahoo groups. Been too long since I last went there.



Send me a direct picture (s) of what you have setup for the boost gauge.



Boost vacuum port should be after the throttle body.



I would be highly suspect that the VJ14 could ever make 30 psi, and that you are
seeing boost while cruising makes me know the vacuum port for the boost gauge is
not in the right spot



Greg Downing

Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

Washington, State. USA

  <mailto:gpd323@...> gpd323@...

  <mailto:gpd323@...> gpd323@...

253-847-5785 hm

253-324-0856 cell



  spanaway-little



From: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Adam
Chovanak
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:46 PM
To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com; Greg D
Subject: Re: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!





Greg,

Thanks for the quick response. I've been lurking for a little while and nice to
see locals contributing such good info. I've just uploaded photos to the gallery
which may illuminate what I have going on. The album is titled 88 323GTX -
achova and should be at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/323gtx/photos/album/1241155156/pic/list

I chose the point to collect boost fromthe aluminum pipe that also has the BOV -
downstream from the intercooler but before the throttle. The nipple is
immediately forward of the purple BOV in photo #P1010385.JPG and I believe this
port supplied pressure to the wastegate actuator from the factory. Boost air for
wastegate is now supplied by a 90 degree fitting in the outlet of the compressor
section visible in photo #P1010387.JPG.

I agree that the intake manifold may show vacuum but the green turbo indicator
also comes on when the gauge reports boost. Also - this thing did grenade before
the prior owner got much use out of it so I'd like to cure this
sooner-than-later.

Again - any direction would be appreciated.

- Adam

--- On Thu, 12/31/09, Greg D <gpd323@...
<mailto:gpd323%40earthlink.net> > wrote:

From: Greg D <gpd323@... <mailto:gpd323%40earthlink.net> >
Subject: FW: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!
To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com <mailto:323gtx%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 4:17 PM



Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a

vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is

tapped into a wrong port.

If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.

With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day

long.

Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.

You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with

your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.

Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator

diaphragm is damaged or not.

Greg Downing

Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

Washington, State. USA

<mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net> gpd323@earthlink. net

<mailto:gpd323@gmail. net> gpd323@gmail. net

253-847-5785 hm

253-324-0856 cell

spanaway-little

From: Greg D [mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net]

Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:17 PM

To: 'adam_chovanak'

Subject: RE: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!

Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a

vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is

tapped into a wrong port.

If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.

With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day

long.

Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.

You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with

your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.

Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator

diaphragm is damaged or not.

Greg Downing

Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

Washington, State. USA

<mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net> gpd323@earthlink. net

<mailto:gpd323@gmail. net> gpd323@gmail. net

253-847-5785 hm

253-324-0856 cell

spanaway-little

From: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of

adam_chovanak

Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 3:53 PM

To: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com

Subject: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!

I recently picked up a 323 GTX and have a couple issues I'd like help with.

The prior owner spent some time with performance mods and I'm trying to make

sense of what's going on.

For starters, it had a blown head gasket when I purchased it. I towed it to

a local shop (Jerry's Small Car in Kent - Miata specialist) to have it

opened up. The engine appears to have been recently rebuilt however Jerry

reported it was developing 30PSI and sent me away with a strong caution... I

have a boost gauge hooked up and it carries 12-18 PSI boost cruising down

the highway and gently rolling on the throttle it hits 18-20 PSI where

stumbles heavily. If you're at higher RPM and you hit the throttle it spikes

to 25+ PSI with significant stumbling (I've just done this a few times to

see what happens...)

The turbo appears slightly different than OEM (I purchased an OEM turbo from

member Luke - thanks, Luke!) but it does not appear particularly exotic.

I've verified the plubming for the wastegate is in place and in good shape

and suspect a seized wastegate. Also - for background, the car has a BOV,

turbo timer, and S-AFC although the S-AFC does not appear to be hooked up.

A couple questions.

1) Is wastegate seisure common and if so, is there a trick to free up (I'll

try a bicycle pump shortly).

2) What's a good upper end for boost with stock injectors and intercooler?

3) Any recommendation on a logical path forward?

Thanks!!

Adam in Seattle

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Greg,

Thanks for the quick response. I've been lurking for a little while and nice to
see locals contributing such good info. I've just uploaded photos to the gallery
which may illuminate what I have going on. The album is titled 88 323GTX -
achova and should be at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/323gtx/photos/album/1241155156/pic/list

I chose the point to collect boost fromthe aluminum pipe that also has the BOV -
downstream from the intercooler but before the throttle. The nipple is
immediately forward of the purple BOV in photo #P1010385.JPG and I believe this
port supplied pressure to the wastegate actuator from the factory. Boost air for
wastegate is now supplied by a 90 degree fitting in the outlet of the compressor
section visible in photo #P1010387.JPG.

I agree that the intake manifold may show vacuum but the green turbo indicator
also comes on when the gauge reports boost. Also - this thing did grenade before
the prior owner got much use out of it so I'd like to cure this
sooner-than-later.

Again - any direction would be appreciated. 

- Adam

--- On Thu, 12/31/09, Greg D <gpd323@...> wrote:

From: Greg D <gpd323@...>
Subject: FW: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!
To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 4:17 PM







 









       Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a

vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is

tapped into a wrong port.



If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.



With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day

long.



Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.



You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with

your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.

Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator

diaphragm is damaged or not.



Greg Downing



Beautiful Downtown Spanaway



Washington, State. USA



<mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net> gpd323@earthlink. net



<mailto:gpd323@gmail. net> gpd323@gmail. net



253-847-5785 hm



253-324-0856 cell



spanaway-little



From: Greg D [mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net]

Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:17 PM

To: 'adam_chovanak'

Subject: RE: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!



Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a

vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is

tapped into a wrong port.



If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.



With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day

long.



Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.



You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with

your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.

Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator

diaphragm is damaged or not.



Greg Downing



Beautiful Downtown Spanaway



Washington, State. USA



<mailto:gpd323@earthlink. net> gpd323@earthlink. net



<mailto:gpd323@gmail. net> gpd323@gmail. net



253-847-5785 hm



253-324-0856 cell



spanaway-little



From: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of

adam_chovanak

Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 3:53 PM

To: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com

Subject: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!



I recently picked up a 323 GTX and have a couple issues I'd like help with.

The prior owner spent some time with performance mods and I'm trying to make

sense of what's going on.



For starters, it had a blown head gasket when I purchased it. I towed it to

a local shop (Jerry's Small Car in Kent - Miata specialist) to have it

opened up. The engine appears to have been recently rebuilt however Jerry

reported it was developing 30PSI and sent me away with a strong caution... I

have a boost gauge hooked up and it carries 12-18 PSI boost cruising down

the highway and gently rolling on the throttle it hits 18-20 PSI where

stumbles heavily. If you're at higher RPM and you hit the throttle it spikes

to 25+ PSI with significant stumbling (I've just done this a few times to

see what happens...)



The turbo appears slightly different than OEM (I purchased an OEM turbo from

member Luke - thanks, Luke!) but it does not appear particularly exotic.

I've verified the plubming for the wastegate is in place and in good shape

and suspect a seized wastegate. Also - for background, the car has a BOV,

turbo timer, and S-AFC although the S-AFC does not appear to be hooked up.



A couple questions.



1) Is wastegate seisure common and if so, is there a trick to free up (I'll

try a bicycle pump shortly).



2) What's a good upper end for boost with stock injectors and intercooler?



3) Any recommendation on a logical path forward?



Thanks!!



Adam in Seattle



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

As RPM�s rise the weights at the bottom of the dizzy will advance the
timing, when you get into boost the dizzy has a retard function that backs
off the timing. If it�s the original dizzy, I would dig into it and check it
out.



I wonder if the slow draw has a impact on your issues?



There is always a dark current draw on any car. I wonder where yours is if
it can drain your battery so quickly?



Greg Downing

Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

Washington, State. USA

  <mailto:gpd323@...> gpd323@...

  <mailto:gpd323@...> gpd323@...

253-847-5785 hm

253-324-0856 cell



  spanaway-little



From: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
franticfour2003
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:32 PM
To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [323GTX] Re: Electrical Troubleshooting Help! Poor power delivery
below 4K RPM





If it were crank nose issue, would it run great above 4K? When I rebuild
this motor I agonized on getting a new crank or not but opted to use a new
bolt, lock tight and torqued it properly. It's got about 15K since rebuild.
I have had some weird problems with my power steering belt lately getting it
adjusted well to avoid squealing and even shredded a belt because I assumed
I had it too tight. I will pull the belts and look into that over the
weekend. God I would be depressed if it is this.

I have no error codes. Over the summer I did have one code 17, feedback
system which prompted me to change the O2 to a new one and it never came
back. One thing on this though, I have a slow draw in the electrical system
somewhere so I disconnect the negative battery terminal every time I park it
for overnight.

I have run a few extra grounds already hoping that would help but no real
difference. The slow draw on my battery has prompted me to clean and inspect
most of the factory grounds in the engine bay and add the extras. None of
that made the draw go away.

I have never opened up my dizzy but have been tempted to check that out
lately. Car has 174 ish original miles on it and I have no record of service
before my ownership which started around 155K. This dizzy would be retarding
based on boost right, there is no other timing control via the ECU is there?
Or perhaps the timing retards to a certain point and then is held constant.
I'm not sure but I did play with the timing some way back because that is
what the techs at the emissions place suggested and it turns out I did have
it slightly off but only a degree or so. Right now I'm confident it is
correct at 12 degrees. This didn't help me pass emissions on the second try
either. Still real rich.

The AFM I have on it now came off a bone stock capris XR2 which was accident
damage I bought for parts years ago. Fairly confident it is unmolested but
haven't verified.

Lower rad sensor is properly hooked up and I'm in Olympia Bob.

I guess what is stumping me is that it seems to run perfect above 4K,
seriously rips all the way to redline. With that in mind I just assumed it
wouldn't be mechanical issues but rather electrical with how the ECU is
controlling issues above and below that RPM threshold.

Thanks guys!
Keith

--- In 323gtx@yahoogroups.com <mailto:323gtx%40yahoogroups.com> , "Greg D"
<gpd323@...> wrote:
>
> It's a rebuilt B6T so I am sure it's not the crank nose....never know
> though. My hybrid turbo blew up his original engine.
>
> Keith, has anyone opened the AFM and goofed with the spring inside? Have
you
> ever verified the advance springs in the dizzy are intact?
>
> You might try adding a few extra grounds.
>
> Also, check the lower rad sensor and make sure both prongs are hooked up.
>
> Greg Downing
> Beautiful Downtown Spanaway
> Washington, State. USA
> gpd323@...
> gpd323@...
> 253-847-5785 hm
> 253-324-0856 cell
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com <mailto:323gtx%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups.com <mailto:323gtx%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf
Of
> Bob Martin
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 12:07 PM
> To: franticfour2003
> Cc: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com <mailto:323gtx%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [323GTX] Electrical Troublshooting Help! Poor power delivery
> below 4K RPM
>
> Keith,
>
> Have you checked your crank nose for wobble? Your description fits the
> symptoms to a T, so you need to check that first. Pull your two belts off,
> remove the pulleys and look at the key hole. If it doesn't look good, it
> probably isn't.
>
> Do that then let us know. This group is always eager to help diagnose
> problems on someone else's car. Whatever probel you are having, someone
here
> has had it first!
>
> Where are you located?
>
> Bob
>
> On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 2:03 PM, franticfour2003
> <coolgtx@...>wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Hey Group, could really use the help of some more experienced GTX owners
> as
> > I am about a year of on and off work doing electrical troubleshooting
with
> > my car and to be honest, I suck at it.
> >
> > I've got a B6T, 89 GTX running basically stock right now. Wastegate
boost
> > is about 10PSI on a hybrid turbo. Cone filter, stock intercooler,
rebuild
> > b6t with wiseco pistons bumping compression to about 8.5 I think.
> >
> > I just replaced my air meter and throttle body with known good ones
which
> > has improved a very rich condition below 4K rpm. But it still seems very
> > sluggish down low, like basically very irratic power delivery until I
hit
> 4K
> > and then she rips like it should. I tried to get through emissions last
> > summer but I think my air meter was crap because results were failing
> > because too rich. This is what prompted me to finally learn how to
follow
> > the troubleshooting procedure and test voltages across the air meter and
> tps
> > so now these are correct.
> >
> > New NGK plugs, wires, seem to have good spark but I could be wrong.
Timing
> > is set to 12 degrees per the FSM. New O2 sensor about 200 miles ago,
could
> > it be damaged from being too rich with the crappy air meter I had in for
a
> > bit?
> >
> > Idle is good and level. Comes off vaccum fine but once I get into boost
at
> > lower RPM is where I'm not happy with performance.
> >
> > So, sorry for the long winded inquiry here but here is what I'm
thinking.
> > Does anyone know what specific inputs the ECU is using below 4K to
control
> > fuel? The car runs fine in vaccum, and great above 4K so I'm thinking
that
> > does this ECU do like an open loop/closed loop thing where above that
RPM
> > level it drops an input and goes to other signals to control fuel?
> Whatever
> > signal drops is what I'm wanting to look at troubleshooting or
replacing.
> >
> > Appreciate any suggestions the group can offer!
> > Keith
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If it were crank nose issue, would it run great above 4K?  When I rebuild this
motor I agonized on getting a new crank or not but opted to use a new bolt, lock
tight and torqued it properly.  It's got about 15K since rebuild.  I have had
some weird problems with my power steering belt lately getting it adjusted well
to avoid squealing and even shredded a belt because I assumed I had it too
tight.  I will pull the belts and look into that over the weekend.  God I would
be depressed if it is this.

I have no error codes.  Over the summer I did have one code 17, feedback system
which prompted me to change the O2 to a new one and it never came back.  One
thing on this though, I have a slow draw in the electrical system somewhere so I
disconnect the negative battery terminal every time I park it for overnight.

I have run a few extra grounds already hoping that would help but no real
difference.  The slow draw on my battery has prompted me to clean and inspect
most of the factory grounds in the engine bay and add the extras.  None of that
made the draw go away.

I have never opened up my dizzy but have been tempted to check that out lately. 
Car has 174 ish original miles on it and I have no record of service before my
ownership which started around 155K.  This dizzy would be retarding based on
boost right, there is no other timing control via the ECU is there?  Or perhaps
the timing retards to a certain point and then is held constant.  I'm not sure
but I did play with the timing some way back because that is what the techs at
the emissions place suggested and it turns out I did have it slightly off but
only a degree or so.  Right now I'm confident it is correct at 12 degrees.  This
didn't help me pass emissions on the second try either.  Still real rich.

The AFM I have on it now came off a bone stock capris XR2 which was accident
damage I bought for parts years ago.  Fairly confident it is unmolested but
haven't verified.

Lower rad sensor is properly hooked up and I'm in Olympia Bob.

I guess what is stumping me is that it seems to run perfect above 4K, seriously
rips all the way to redline.  With that in mind I just assumed it wouldn't be
mechanical issues but rather electrical with how the ECU is controlling issues
above and below that RPM threshold.

Thanks guys!
Keith



--- In 323gtx@yahoogroups.com, "Greg D" <gpd323@...> wrote:
>
> It's a rebuilt B6T so I am sure it's not the crank nose....never know
> though. My hybrid turbo blew up his original engine.
>
> Keith, has anyone opened the AFM and goofed with the spring inside? Have you
> ever verified the advance springs in the dizzy are intact?
>
> You might try adding a few extra grounds.
>
> Also, check the lower rad sensor and make sure both prongs are hooked up.
>
> Greg Downing
> Beautiful Downtown Spanaway
> Washington, State. USA
> gpd323@...
> gpd323@...
> 253-847-5785 hm
> 253-324-0856 cell
> �
> �
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> Bob Martin
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 12:07 PM
> To: franticfour2003
> Cc: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [323GTX] Electrical Troublshooting Help! Poor power delivery
> below 4K RPM
>
> Keith,
>
> Have you checked your crank nose for wobble? Your description fits the
> symptoms to a T, so you need to check that first. Pull your two belts off,
> remove the pulleys and look at the key hole. If it doesn't look good, it
> probably isn't.
>
> Do that then let us know. This group is always eager to help diagnose
> problems on someone else's car. Whatever probel you are having, someone here
> has had it first!
>
> Where are you located?
>
> Bob
>
> On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 2:03 PM, franticfour2003
> <coolgtx@...>wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Hey Group, could really use the help of some more experienced GTX owners
> as
> > I am about a year of on and off work doing electrical troubleshooting with
> > my car and to be honest, I suck at it.
> >
> > I've got a B6T, 89 GTX running basically stock right now. Wastegate boost
> > is about 10PSI on a hybrid turbo. Cone filter, stock intercooler, rebuild
> > b6t with wiseco pistons bumping compression to about 8.5 I think.
> >
> > I just replaced my air meter and throttle body with known good ones which
> > has improved a very rich condition below 4K rpm. But it still seems very
> > sluggish down low, like basically very irratic power delivery until I hit
> 4K
> > and then she rips like it should. I tried to get through emissions last
> > summer but I think my air meter was crap because results were failing
> > because too rich. This is what prompted me to finally learn how to follow
> > the troubleshooting procedure and test voltages across the air meter and
> tps
> > so now these are correct.
> >
> > New NGK plugs, wires, seem to have good spark but I could be wrong. Timing
> > is set to 12 degrees per the FSM. New O2 sensor about 200 miles ago, could
> > it be damaged from being too rich with the crappy air meter I had in for a
> > bit?
> >
> > Idle is good and level. Comes off vaccum fine but once I get into boost at
> > lower RPM is where I'm not happy with performance.
> >
> > So, sorry for the long winded inquiry here but here is what I'm thinking.
> > Does anyone know what specific inputs the ECU is using below 4K to control
> > fuel? The car runs fine in vaccum, and great above 4K so I'm thinking that
> > does this ECU do like an open loop/closed loop thing where above that RPM
> > level it drops an input and goes to other signals to control fuel?
> Whatever
> > signal drops is what I'm wanting to look at troubleshooting or replacing.
> >
> > Appreciate any suggestions the group can offer!
> > Keith
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>

Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a
vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is
tapped into a wrong port.



If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.



With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day
long.



Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.



You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with
your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.
Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator
diaphragm is damaged or not.





Greg Downing

Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

Washington, State. USA

  <mailto:gpd323@...> gpd323@...

  <mailto:gpd323@...> gpd323@...

253-847-5785 hm

253-324-0856 cell



  spanaway-little



From: Greg D [mailto:gpd323@...]
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 4:17 PM
To: 'adam_chovanak'
Subject: RE: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!



Well, for one. Cursing down the highway the boost/vacuum should read a
vacuum number. It's not on boost when cursing. I suspect the boost gauge is
tapped into a wrong port.



If it were making 30 psi the engine would grenade.



With a chipped ECU or other means of fuel enrichment, 16 psi is good all day
long.



Check the BOV. Make sure it's not leaking.



You can check the operation of the wastegate by blowing into the line with
your mouth. If you cannot move air through the WG actuator, then its fine.
Besides they are spring loaded and should open regardless if the actuator
diaphragm is damaged or not.



Greg Downing

Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

Washington, State. USA

  <mailto:gpd323@...> gpd323@...

  <mailto:gpd323@...> gpd323@...

253-847-5785 hm

253-324-0856 cell



  spanaway-little



From: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
adam_chovanak
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 3:53 PM
To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [323GTX] 323 GTX too much boost!





I recently picked up a 323 GTX and have a couple issues I'd like help with.
The prior owner spent some time with performance mods and I'm trying to make
sense of what's going on.

For starters, it had a blown head gasket when I purchased it. I towed it to
a local shop (Jerry's Small Car in Kent - Miata specialist) to have it
opened up. The engine appears to have been recently rebuilt however Jerry
reported it was developing 30PSI and sent me away with a strong caution... I
have a boost gauge hooked up and it carries 12-18 PSI boost cruising down
the highway and gently rolling on the throttle it hits 18-20 PSI where
stumbles heavily. If you're at higher RPM and you hit the throttle it spikes
to 25+ PSI with significant stumbling (I've just done this a few times to
see what happens...)

The turbo appears slightly different than OEM (I purchased an OEM turbo from
member Luke - thanks, Luke!) but it does not appear particularly exotic.
I've verified the plubming for the wastegate is in place and in good shape
and suspect a seized wastegate. Also - for background, the car has a BOV,
turbo timer, and S-AFC although the S-AFC does not appear to be hooked up.

A couple questions.

1) Is wastegate seisure common and if so, is there a trick to free up (I'll
try a bicycle pump shortly).

2) What's a good upper end for boost with stock injectors and intercooler?

3) Any recommendation on a logical path forward?

Thanks!!

Adam in Seattle





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I recently picked up a 323 GTX and have a couple issues I'd like help with. The
prior owner spent some time with performance mods and I'm trying to make sense
of what's going on.

For starters, it had a blown head gasket when I purchased it. I towed it to a
local shop (Jerry's Small Car in Kent - Miata specialist) to have it opened up.
The engine appears to have been recently rebuilt however Jerry reported it was
developing 30PSI and sent me away with a strong caution... I have a boost gauge
hooked up and it carries 12-18 PSI boost cruising down the highway and gently
rolling on the throttle it hits 18-20 PSI where stumbles heavily. If you're at
higher RPM and you hit the throttle it spikes to 25+ PSI with significant
stumbling (I've just done this a few times to see what happens...)

The turbo appears slightly different than OEM (I purchased an OEM turbo from
member Luke - thanks, Luke!) but it does not appear particularly exotic. I've
verified the plubming for the wastegate is in place and in good shape and
suspect a seized wastegate. Also - for background, the car has a BOV, turbo
timer, and S-AFC although the S-AFC does not appear to be hooked up.

A couple questions.

1) Is wastegate seisure common and if so, is there a trick to free up (I'll try
a bicycle pump shortly).

2) What's a good upper end for boost with stock injectors and intercooler?

3) Any recommendation on a logical path forward?

Thanks!!

Adam in Seattle

Pull the error codes, if any, and see what shows up.



Greg Downing

Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

Washington, State. USA

  <mailto:gpd323@...> gpd323@...

  <mailto:gpd323@...> gpd323@...

253-847-5785 hm

253-324-0856 cell



  spanaway-little



From: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
franticfour2003
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 11:03 AM
To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [323GTX] Electrical Troublshooting Help! Poor power delivery below
4K RPM





Hey Group, could really use the help of some more experienced GTX owners as
I am about a year of on and off work doing electrical troubleshooting with
my car and to be honest, I suck at it.

I've got a B6T, 89 GTX running basically stock right now. Wastegate boost is
about 10PSI on a hybrid turbo. Cone filter, stock intercooler, rebuild b6t
with wiseco pistons bumping compression to about 8.5 I think.

I just replaced my air meter and throttle body with known good ones which
has improved a very rich condition below 4K rpm. But it still seems very
sluggish down low, like basically very irratic power delivery until I hit 4K
and then she rips like it should. I tried to get through emissions last
summer but I think my air meter was crap because results were failing
because too rich. This is what prompted me to finally learn how to follow
the troubleshooting procedure and test voltages across the air meter and tps
so now these are correct.

New NGK plugs, wires, seem to have good spark but I could be wrong. Timing
is set to 12 degrees per the FSM. New O2 sensor about 200 miles ago, could
it be damaged from being too rich with the crappy air meter I had in for a
bit?

Idle is good and level. Comes off vaccum fine but once I get into boost at
lower RPM is where I'm not happy with performance.

So, sorry for the long winded inquiry here but here is what I'm thinking.
Does anyone know what specific inputs the ECU is using below 4K to control
fuel? The car runs fine in vaccum, and great above 4K so I'm thinking that
does this ECU do like an open loop/closed loop thing where above that RPM
level it drops an input and goes to other signals to control fuel? Whatever
signal drops is what I'm wanting to look at troubleshooting or replacing.

Appreciate any suggestions the group can offer!
Keith





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey guys,

My brother and I are finally getting around to dropping this BPT in
the rallycar. It was recently rebuilt, so we would like to check
hardware torque before installing it.  Questions are:

1) Does anyone have a good source for a BPT shop manual?

2) in the interest of saving time, does anyone want to send me torque
specs for the following?

Crank/main bearing caps
Connecting rod caps
ARP headstuds
Cam caps
Oil pump
Water pump
Crank nose

I have a B6T service manual, and thought about using those specs, but
I am not sure they are the same?

Thanks in advance,

Christopher Baldini
206-790-2632


>

It�s a rebuilt B6T so I am sure it's not the crank nose....never know
though. My hybrid turbo blew up his original engine.

Keith, has anyone opened the AFM and goofed with the spring inside? Have you
ever verified the advance springs in the dizzy are intact?

You might try adding a few extra grounds.

Also, check the lower rad sensor and make sure both prongs are hooked up.

Greg Downing
Beautiful Downtown Spanaway
Washington, State. USA
gpd323@...
gpd323@...
253-847-5785 hm
253-324-0856 cell
�
�


-----Original Message-----
From: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Bob Martin
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 12:07 PM
To: franticfour2003
Cc: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [323GTX] Electrical Troublshooting Help! Poor power delivery
below 4K RPM

Keith,

Have you checked your crank nose for wobble? Your description fits the
symptoms to a T, so you need to check that first. Pull your two belts off,
remove the pulleys and look at the key hole. If it doesn't look good, it
probably isn't.

Do that then let us know. This group is always eager to help diagnose
problems on someone else's car. Whatever probel you are having, someone here
has had it first!

Where are you located?

Bob

On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 2:03 PM, franticfour2003
<coolgtx@...>wrote:

>
>
> Hey Group, could really use the help of some more experienced GTX owners
as
> I am about a year of on and off work doing electrical troubleshooting with
> my car and to be honest, I suck at it.
>
> I've got a B6T, 89 GTX running basically stock right now. Wastegate boost
> is about 10PSI on a hybrid turbo. Cone filter, stock intercooler, rebuild
> b6t with wiseco pistons bumping compression to about 8.5 I think.
>
> I just replaced my air meter and throttle body with known good ones which
> has improved a very rich condition below 4K rpm. But it still seems very
> sluggish down low, like basically very irratic power delivery until I hit
4K
> and then she rips like it should. I tried to get through emissions last
> summer but I think my air meter was crap because results were failing
> because too rich. This is what prompted me to finally learn how to follow
> the troubleshooting procedure and test voltages across the air meter and
tps
> so now these are correct.
>
> New NGK plugs, wires, seem to have good spark but I could be wrong. Timing
> is set to 12 degrees per the FSM. New O2 sensor about 200 miles ago, could
> it be damaged from being too rich with the crappy air meter I had in for a
> bit?
>
> Idle is good and level. Comes off vaccum fine but once I get into boost at
> lower RPM is where I'm not happy with performance.
>
> So, sorry for the long winded inquiry here but here is what I'm thinking.
> Does anyone know what specific inputs the ECU is using below 4K to control
> fuel? The car runs fine in vaccum, and great above 4K so I'm thinking that
> does this ECU do like an open loop/closed loop thing where above that RPM
> level it drops an input and goes to other signals to control fuel?
Whatever
> signal drops is what I'm wanting to look at troubleshooting or replacing.
>
> Appreciate any suggestions the group can offer!
> Keith
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Keith,

Have you checked your crank nose for wobble? Your description fits the
symptoms to a T, so you need to check that first. Pull your two belts off,
remove the pulleys and look at the key hole. If it doesn't look good, it
probably isn't.

Do that then let us know. This group is always eager to help diagnose
problems on someone else's car. Whatever probel you are having, someone here
has had it first!

Where are you located?

Bob

On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 2:03 PM, franticfour2003 <coolgtx@...>wrote:

>
>
> Hey Group, could really use the help of some more experienced GTX owners as
> I am about a year of on and off work doing electrical troubleshooting with
> my car and to be honest, I suck at it.
>
> I've got a B6T, 89 GTX running basically stock right now. Wastegate boost
> is about 10PSI on a hybrid turbo. Cone filter, stock intercooler, rebuild
> b6t with wiseco pistons bumping compression to about 8.5 I think.
>
> I just replaced my air meter and throttle body with known good ones which
> has improved a very rich condition below 4K rpm. But it still seems very
> sluggish down low, like basically very irratic power delivery until I hit 4K
> and then she rips like it should. I tried to get through emissions last
> summer but I think my air meter was crap because results were failing
> because too rich. This is what prompted me to finally learn how to follow
> the troubleshooting procedure and test voltages across the air meter and tps
> so now these are correct.
>
> New NGK plugs, wires, seem to have good spark but I could be wrong. Timing
> is set to 12 degrees per the FSM. New O2 sensor about 200 miles ago, could
> it be damaged from being too rich with the crappy air meter I had in for a
> bit?
>
> Idle is good and level. Comes off vaccum fine but once I get into boost at
> lower RPM is where I'm not happy with performance.
>
> So, sorry for the long winded inquiry here but here is what I'm thinking.
> Does anyone know what specific inputs the ECU is using below 4K to control
> fuel? The car runs fine in vaccum, and great above 4K so I'm thinking that
> does this ECU do like an open loop/closed loop thing where above that RPM
> level it drops an input and goes to other signals to control fuel? Whatever
> signal drops is what I'm wanting to look at troubleshooting or replacing.
>
> Appreciate any suggestions the group can offer!
> Keith
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey Group, could really use the help of some more experienced GTX owners as I am
about a year of on and off work doing electrical troubleshooting with my car and
to be honest, I suck at it.

I've got a B6T, 89 GTX running basically stock right now.  Wastegate boost is
about 10PSI on a hybrid turbo.  Cone filter, stock intercooler, rebuild b6t with
wiseco pistons bumping compression to about 8.5 I think.

I just replaced my air meter and throttle body with known good ones which has
improved a very rich condition below 4K rpm.  But it still seems very sluggish
down low, like basically very irratic power delivery until I hit 4K and then she
rips like it should.  I tried to get through emissions last summer but I think
my air meter was crap because results were failing because too rich.  This is
what prompted me to finally learn how to follow the troubleshooting procedure
and test voltages across the air meter and tps so now these are correct.

New NGK plugs, wires, seem to have good spark but I could be wrong.  Timing is
set to 12 degrees per the FSM.  New O2 sensor about 200 miles ago, could it be
damaged from being too rich with the crappy air meter I had in for a bit?

Idle is good and level.  Comes off vaccum fine but once I get into boost at
lower RPM is where I'm not happy with performance.

So, sorry for the long winded inquiry here but here is what I'm thinking.  Does
anyone know what specific inputs the ECU is using below 4K to control fuel?  The
car runs fine in vaccum, and great above 4K so I'm thinking that does this ECU
do like an open loop/closed loop thing where above that RPM level it drops an
input and goes to other signals to control fuel?  Whatever signal drops is what
I'm wanting to look at troubleshooting or replacing.

Appreciate any suggestions the group can offer!
Keith

Make sure the retaining clip floats, and rotates freely in its groove. Even
slight binding (common on reman axles) will cause the axle to pop out. Check
both the retainer groove and the splines for burrs or damage.

- Paul.

--- In 323gtx@yahoogroups.com, Eric Turner <talntid@...> wrote:
>
> Got the car back, had the retaining clip on the axle and the axle seal
> replaced... drove car home, parked it, woke up this morning, fluid all over
> the garage floor. yay. :(
>
> car aligned perfectly. curb did not hit hard enough to bend wheel, and only
> slightly bent the control arm -- only enough for them to say "since it's
> slightly bent, it will be easy to bend in the future. want us to replace
> it?" so I told them yes, and had it done.
>
> The steering knuckle was also slightly bent. replaced it too, and for good
> measure had a new lower ball joint put on.
>
> car is aligned, but pops axles. argh.
>
>
>
> Eric Turner
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 28, 2009 at 2:21 PM, Greg Downing <gpd323@...> wrote:
>
> >  You can have an alignment so far out of whack and it will never allow an
> > axle to pop out. The axle is held in its place by the lower A-arm and
> > knuckle assembly. Alighment is only adjusting the toe via the steering rack
> > tie rods.
> >
> >
> >
> > I sure hope you kept the Firestone alignment papaerwork?
> >
> >
> >
> > If you hit a curb and bent the wheel and suspension. That would put the
> > wheel "closer" to the car and tranny and make the axle even more tight to
> > the trans.
> >
> >
> >
> > It seems that you are at thier mercy because you do not fully know how
> > everything car/GTX AWD related works. I feel your pain. Too bad there is not
> > anyone with GTX experience to help you out. I mean no disrespect by that
> > comment.
> >
> >
> >
> > Note: you said the center diff was locked and they towed it. It it had been
> > unlocked that may have allowed a short tow at slow speeds. Do you have your
> > original owners manual??? That has a towing section that explains exactly
> > what is allowed and what is not.
> >
> >
> >
> > How hard did you hit the curb? Visable suspension damage?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Eric Turner
> > Sent: Dec 28, 2009 4:48 PM
> > To: Greg Downing
> > Cc: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [323GTX] Towing AWD with only front wheels up.
> >
> > Just got back from the shop where the car is at.
> > Passenger side was NOT popped out.
> >
> > Driver side was popped out, but not hanging - just not engaging... they are
> > saying it is an "alignment" issue, supposedly when I tapped the curb it bent
> > the frame (although they have no frame rack or anything). They are blaming
> > Firestone, the company I bought the tires/alignment from. It aligned
> > perfectly.
> >
> > They have told me that so long as the car is not towed for more than 10
> > miles, at under 35mph, it would be 100% fine.
> >
> > Although I still believe that they are at fault for the transmission being
> > faulty, I am not sure I can afford to have Mazda look at it, pay Mazda, and
> > then go to small claims. I expect the repair cost to probably be more than I
> > paid for the car. :(
> >
> > This sucks.
> >
> >
> > Eric Turner
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Mon, Dec 28, 2009 at 12:34 PM, Greg Downing <gpd323@...>wrote:
> >>
> >>> Where is Rick Barnes and his expert impression on what happend?
> >>>
> >>> I call BS (the towing company explanation) and I bet the CV's are toast,
> >>> or the tranny is destroyed.
> >>>
> >>> How the hell does a passenger side axle get "spit out" of the side of the
> >>> tranny???
> >>>
> >>> Mo has good info. I told him to contact a Mazda dealer for expert
> >>> assistance.
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Eric Turner
> >>> Sent: Dec 28, 2009 2:31 PM
> >>> To: Joel Mundt
> >>> Cc: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com
> >>> Subject: Re: [323GTX] Towing AWD with only front wheels up.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> The towing company that towed it, also owns a service shop. They took it
> >>> there to look at it, and said the axles popped out, and that it was NOT a
> >>> towing related problem. Just.. popped out.
> >>>
> >>> Eric Turner
> >>>
> >>> On Mon, Dec 28, 2009 at 11:11 AM, Joel Mundt <mundt.joel@...> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> >
> >>> > Icky!! When I've had a breakdown in the GTX, I've also been very
> >>> specific
> >>> > about the situation. I know it's not always possible, but I don't leave
> >>> the
> >>> > car until the towing company shows up. If they don't have a flatbed,
> >>> they
> >>> > don't take the car. To this point, they've always brought the proper
> >>> > vehicle. I'm sorry to hear about this, and hope it works out for you.
> >>> If
> >>> > you were specific, they should accept responsibility.
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> > Regards,
> >>> >
> >>> > Joel
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> > To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com
> >>> > From: talntid@...
> >>> > Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 09:58:41 -0800
> >>> > Subject: [323GTX] Towing AWD with only front wheels up.
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> > Car got a flat tire after I tapped a curb in the snow, so I had it
> >>> towed to
> >>> > a shop to work on it and get new snow tires. Towing company, after
> >>> being
> >>> > advised that my 1989 Mazda 323 GTX was AWD, towed it with 2 front
> >>> wheels
> >>> > up,
> >>> > and the rear wheels on the ground. Diff lock was enabled.
> >>> >
> >>> > Before I mention what damage was caused, in my opinion from this, I
> >>> would
> >>> > like to hear your experiences and what you think can happen due to
> >>> this.
> >>> >
> >>> > Eric Turner
> >>> >
> >>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> > ------------------------------------
> >>> >
> >>> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>>
> >>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Greg Downing
> >>> gpd323@...
> >>> Beautiful Downtown Spanaway
> >>> Washington State, USA
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> > Greg Downinggpd323@...
> > Beautiful Downtown Spanaway
> > Washington State, USA
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Go to fordlaser.com and download the factory service manual.
Clay

--- In 323gtx@yahoogroups.com, "indistyx" <indistyx@...> wrote:
>
> I know this is probably a subject well sorted out in previous posts, but I was
curious if someone could describe or post a file (pic and labels) of all those
pesky relays up above the under dash fusebox.  There seems to be several and one
is a pretty green color....;0)
>

I know this is probably a subject well sorted out in previous posts, but I was
curious if someone could describe or post a file (pic and labels) of all those
pesky relays up above the under dash fusebox.  There seems to be several and one
is a pretty green color....;0)

Note to self and others. Only for a BPT with the stock AFM and intake
pieces. Not for the B6T.



From: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com [mailto:323gtx@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Jim Chittenden
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 1:42 PM
To: gtx list
Subject: [323GTX] GTX Boost Tip





What do you guys think of this "anti-lag" suggestion?

http://nz323.allhell.com/hosetrick.html

Jim
after your air filter or airbox is the AFM(air flow metre)...on the side is
a solanoid the size of a medium torch battery..it has 2 hoses going to
it..one from the air intake(small branch off elbow) goes to the top point
the other (bottom) goes down to turbo(wastegate actuator)....take the bottom
one off the solenoid and put it on the little intake branch/elbow that was
origionally the place the top one came from...ok...then loop the top
hose,still connected to solanoid, down to where the bottom one came
off...basically you loop the solanoid back on itself and put the other hose
across to the intake...this is a trick to get faster spool up and many dont
advise it-i personally like the effect,but sometimes hit the boost cut-out
if excelerating too fast ...you soon learn how to drive hard with it like
this but a boost guage is a must! ........this mod takes about 30 seconds to
do with pliers, open the hose clips and swap around.....go for a drive
sraight
away - notice the difference


The infamous hose swap trick


after your air filter or airbox is the AFM(air flow metre)...on the side is
a solanoid the size of a medium torch battery..it has 2 hoses going to
it..one from the air intake(small branch off elbow) goes to the top point
the other (bottom) goes down to turbo(wastegate actuator)....take the bottom
one off the solenoid and put it on the little intake branch/elbow that was
origionally the place the top one came from...ok...then loop the top
hose,still connected to solanoid, down to where the bottom one came
off...basically you loop the solanoid back on itself and put the other hose
across to the intake...this is a trick to get faster spool up and many dont
advise it-i personally like the effect,but sometimes hit the boost cut-out
if excelerating too fast ...you soon learn how to drive hard with it like
this but a boost guage is a must! ........this mod takes about 30 seconds to
do with pliers, open the hose clips and swap around.....go for a drive
sraight
away - notice the difference?!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

We have a solanoid (sic) on the side of our airflow meter? All this time I
thought it was a coil. Silly me!

Bob

On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 4:41 PM, Jim Chittenden <s1elise190@...>wrote:

>
>
> What do you guys think of this "anti-lag" suggestion?
>
> http://nz323.allhell.com/hosetrick.html
>
> Jim
> after your air filter or airbox is the AFM(air flow metre)...on the side is
> a solanoid the size of a medium torch battery..it has 2 hoses going to
> it..one from the air intake(small branch off elbow) goes to the top point
> the other (bottom) goes down to turbo(wastegate actuator)....take the bottom
> one off the solenoid and put it on the little intake branch/elbow that was
> origionally the place the top one came from...ok...then loop the top
> hose,still connected to solanoid, down to where the bottom one came
> off...basically you loop the solanoid back on itself and put the other hose
> across to the intake...this is a trick to get faster spool up and many dont
> advise it-i personally like the effect,but sometimes hit the boost cut-out
> if excelerating too fast ...you soon learn how to drive hard with it like
> this but a boost guage is a must! ........this mod takes about 30 seconds to
> do with pliers, open the hose clips and swap around.....go for a drive
> sraight
> away - notice the difference
>
>
> The infamous hose swap trick
>
>
> after your air filter or airbox is the AFM(air flow metre)...on the side is
> a solanoid the size of a medium torch battery..it has 2 hoses going to
> it..one from the air intake(small branch off elbow) goes to the top point
> the other (bottom) goes down to turbo(wastegate actuator)....take the bottom
> one off the solenoid and put it on the little intake branch/elbow that was
> origionally the place the top one came from...ok...then loop the top
> hose,still connected to solanoid, down to where the bottom one came
> off...basically you loop the solanoid back on itself and put the other hose
> across to the intake...this is a trick to get faster spool up and many dont
> advise it-i personally like the effect,but sometimes hit the boost cut-out
> if excelerating too fast ...you soon learn how to drive hard with it like
> this but a boost guage is a must! ........this mod takes about 30 seconds to
> do with pliers, open the hose clips and swap around.....go for a drive
> sraight
> away - notice the difference?!
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

What do you guys think of this "anti-lag" suggestion?
�
http://nz323.allhell.com/hosetrick.html
�
Jim
after your air filter or airbox is the AFM(air flow metre)...on the side is a
solanoid the size of a medium torch battery..it has 2 hoses going to it..one
from the air intake(small branch off elbow) goes to the top point the other
(bottom) goes down to turbo(wastegate actuator)....take the bottom one off the
solenoid and put it on the little intake branch/elbow that was origionally the
place the top one came from...ok...then loop the top hose,still connected to
solanoid, down to where the bottom one came off...basically you loop the
solanoid back on itself and put the other hose across to the intake...this is a
trick to get faster spool up and many dont advise it-i personally like the
effect,but sometimes hit the boost cut-out if excelerating too fast ...you soon
learn how to drive hard with it like this but a boost guage is a must!
........this mod takes about 30 seconds to do with pliers, open the hose clips
and swap around.....go for a drive sraight
  away - notice the difference
�

















The infamous hose swap trick



�
after your air filter or airbox is the AFM(air flow metre)...on the side is a
solanoid the size of a medium torch battery..it has 2 hoses going to it..one
from the air intake(small branch off elbow) goes to the top point the other
(bottom) goes down to turbo(wastegate actuator)....take the bottom one off the
solenoid and put it on the little intake branch/elbow that was origionally the
place the top one came from...ok...then loop the top hose,still connected to
solanoid, down to where the bottom one came off...basically you loop the
solanoid back on itself and put the other hose across to the intake...this is a
trick to get faster spool up and many dont advise it-i personally like the
effect,but sometimes hit the boost cut-out if excelerating too fast ...you soon
learn how to drive hard with it like this but a boost guage is a must!
........this mod takes about 30 seconds to do with pliers, open the hose clips
and swap around.....go for a drive sraight
  away - notice the difference?!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Got the car back, had the retaining clip on the axle and the axle seal
replaced... drove car home, parked it, woke up this morning, fluid all over
the garage floor. yay. :(

car aligned perfectly. curb did not hit hard enough to bend wheel, and only
slightly bent the control arm -- only enough for them to say "since it's
slightly bent, it will be easy to bend in the future. want us to replace
it?" so I told them yes, and had it done.

The steering knuckle was also slightly bent. replaced it too, and for good
measure had a new lower ball joint put on.

car is aligned, but pops axles. argh.



Eric Turner


On Mon, Dec 28, 2009 at 2:21 PM, Greg Downing <gpd323@...> wrote:

>  You can have an alignment so far out of whack and it will never allow an
> axle to pop out. The axle is held in its place by the lower A-arm and
> knuckle assembly. Alighment is only adjusting the toe via the steering rack
> tie rods.
>
>
>
> I sure hope you kept the Firestone alignment papaerwork?
>
>
>
> If you hit a curb and bent the wheel and suspension. That would put the
> wheel "closer" to the car and tranny and make the axle even more tight to
> the trans.
>
>
>
> It seems that you are at thier mercy because you do not fully know how
> everything car/GTX AWD related works. I feel your pain. Too bad there is not
> anyone with GTX experience to help you out. I mean no disrespect by that
> comment.
>
>
>
> Note: you said the center diff was locked and they towed it. It it had been
> unlocked that may have allowed a short tow at slow speeds. Do you have your
> original owners manual??? That has a towing section that explains exactly
> what is allowed and what is not.
>
>
>
> How hard did you hit the curb? Visable suspension damage?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eric Turner
> Sent: Dec 28, 2009 4:48 PM
> To: Greg Downing
> Cc: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [323GTX] Towing AWD with only front wheels up.
>
> Just got back from the shop where the car is at.
> Passenger side was NOT popped out.
>
> Driver side was popped out, but not hanging - just not engaging... they are
> saying it is an "alignment" issue, supposedly when I tapped the curb it bent
> the frame (although they have no frame rack or anything). They are blaming
> Firestone, the company I bought the tires/alignment from. It aligned
> perfectly.
>
> They have told me that so long as the car is not towed for more than 10
> miles, at under 35mph, it would be 100% fine.
>
> Although I still believe that they are at fault for the transmission being
> faulty, I am not sure I can afford to have Mazda look at it, pay Mazda, and
> then go to small claims. I expect the repair cost to probably be more than I
> paid for the car. :(
>
> This sucks.
>
>
> Eric Turner
>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Dec 28, 2009 at 12:34 PM, Greg Downing <gpd323@...>wrote:
>>
>>> Where is Rick Barnes and his expert impression on what happend?
>>>
>>> I call BS (the towing company explanation) and I bet the CV's are toast,
>>> or the tranny is destroyed.
>>>
>>> How the hell does a passenger side axle get "spit out" of the side of the
>>> tranny???
>>>
>>> Mo has good info. I told him to contact a Mazda dealer for expert
>>> assistance.
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Eric Turner
>>> Sent: Dec 28, 2009 2:31 PM
>>> To: Joel Mundt
>>> Cc: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com
>>> Subject: Re: [323GTX] Towing AWD with only front wheels up.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The towing company that towed it, also owns a service shop. They took it
>>> there to look at it, and said the axles popped out, and that it was NOT a
>>> towing related problem. Just.. popped out.
>>>
>>> Eric Turner
>>>
>>> On Mon, Dec 28, 2009 at 11:11 AM, Joel Mundt <mundt.joel@...> wrote:
>>>
>>> >
>>> > Icky!! When I've had a breakdown in the GTX, I've also been very
>>> specific
>>> > about the situation. I know it's not always possible, but I don't leave
>>> the
>>> > car until the towing company shows up. If they don't have a flatbed,
>>> they
>>> > don't take the car. To this point, they've always brought the proper
>>> > vehicle. I'm sorry to hear about this, and hope it works out for you.
>>> If
>>> > you were specific, they should accept responsibility.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Regards,
>>> >
>>> > Joel
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > To: 323gtx@yahoogroups.com
>>> > From: talntid@...
>>> > Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 09:58:41 -0800
>>> > Subject: [323GTX] Towing AWD with only front wheels up.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Car got a flat tire after I tapped a curb in the snow, so I had it
>>> towed to
>>> > a shop to work on it and get new snow tires. Towing company, after
>>> being
>>> > advised that my 1989 Mazda 323 GTX was AWD, towed it with 2 front
>>> wheels
>>> > up,
>>> > and the rear wheels on the ground. Diff lock was enabled.
>>> >
>>> > Before I mention what damage was caused, in my opinion from this, I
>>> would
>>> > like to hear your experiences and what you think can happen due to
>>> this.
>>> >
>>> > Eric Turner
>>> >
>>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > ------------------------------------
>>> >
>>> > Yahoo! Groups Links
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Greg Downing
>>> gpd323@...
>>> Beautiful Downtown Spanaway
>>> Washington State, USA
>>>
>>
>>
> Greg Downinggpd323@...
> Beautiful Downtown Spanaway
> Washington State, USA
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jim,
 
Sorry, but I have both the unpainted rear hatch and the JDM front and rear
bumpers.
 
I'm thinking that I want to pull molds of the bumpers. I plan on going through
one or two pairs when the rally car comes back to life. 
 
Bob C.

--- On Tue, 12/29/09, Jim Chittenden <s1elise190@...> wrote:


From: Jim Chittenden <s1elise190@...>
Subject: [323GTX] FB Hatches
To: "gtx list" <323gtx@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, December 29, 2009, 10:47 PM


 



Bob,
 
I would guess the fb hatch came from the same place mine came from, since I've
never seen them anywhere else.  There was a group buy on this site a few years
ago by a guy in the UK, I believe, selling FB hatches.  For some reason very
few people were interested.
 
I would trade a new, unpainted one for a complete JDM facelifted rear bumper
setup.
 
Jim

--- On Tue, 12/29/09, Bob Campbell <bobc80829@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: Bob Campbell <bobc80829@yahoo. com>
Subject: RE: [323GTX] Re: my 323 history
To: "'azgtx'" <azgtx@yahoo. com>, 323gtx@yahoogroups. com, "Mo Ahten"
<moahten@hotmail. com>
Date: Tuesday, December 29, 2009, 8:06 PM

 

Sorry for the slow reply, haven't read mail for quite a while.

Paul did sell his Group A knuckles and struts. I bought them as spares for my
rally car, an old Group A car from Wales. This Robinson guy would be Doug
Robinson. He had a 1.8 powered GTX for a while.

I also have the carbon hood off of Pauls dead car and a fiberglass rear hatch.
Can't remember if the hatch came from Paul or not?

Bob C.

--- On Thu, 12/17/09, Mo Ahten <moahten@hotmail. com> wrote:

From: Mo Ahten <moahten@hotmail. com>
Subject: RE: [323GTX] Re: my 323 history
To: "'azgtx'" <azgtx@yahoo. com>, 323gtx@yahoogroups. com
Date: Thursday, December 17, 2009, 6:08 PM

 

There also used to be a guy name Robinson, I think the first name was Chip

or John.

Paul may have sold the knuckles after the huge crash he had when he

destroyed his "yellow" car.

I know that Mike Welch cut it up and mounted the remnants on his shop wall.

I saw it their one time.

Everyone at that race wrote their own little comment with a sharpie on the

totaled machine.

It would be good to hear from Paul, does anyone know what he's been doing

lately?

M-

-----Original Message-----

From: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com [mailto:323gtx@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of

azgtx

Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 4:40 PM

To: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com

Subject: [323GTX] Re: my 323 history

Likely Group A knuckles and hubs.

Clay

--- In 323gtx@yahoogroups. com, "gbartt" <gbar@...> wrote:

>

> Well they are 5-bolt hubs...

>

> --- In 323gtx@yahoogroups. com, Marc Feigitsch <mfeigitsch@ > wrote:

> >

> > Hi,

> > I don't know much about your car, but I did see it on the Redline

> show.  In the ad, it says that it has second gen RX-7 hubs, etc. 

> Does anyone know if these are a pretty straight forward swap or is a

> lot of work involved?

> > Thanks,

> > Marc

> >

> >

> >

> > ____________ _________ _________ __

> > From: ross_steensland ross_steensland@

> > To: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com

> > Sent: Wed, December 16, 2009 7:00:11 PM

> > Subject: [323GTX] my 323 history

> >

> > Â

> > Just wondering if anyone may know some history of my gtx i just

> > picked

> up. It's the red and white one on the homepage. I've got all the info

> back to 2005 then there's nothing. I read a little that it might be

> one of Paul Timmermans old cars, just wondering if anyone knows about it.

> > here's the link to when it was being sold a few owners ago:

> >

> http://www.racecarm agazine.com/ ForSale/AdDetail s.asp?Ad_ ID=5767&Ad= for

> -S\

> ale-rally-prepped- Mazda-323GTX- SoCal

> >

> > here's some pics:

> > [IMG]http://i497. photobucket. com/albums/ rr335/rsfireAE86

> /1201091303. jpg[/IMG]

> >

> > [IMG]http://i497. photobucket. com/albums/ rr335/rsfireAE86

> /1210091553. jpg[/IMG]

> >

> > [IMG]http://i497. photobucket. com/albums/ rr335/rsfireAE86

> /1210091558. jpg[/IMG]

> >

> > here's one of the old pics, the one from the homepage here

> > [IMG]http://i497. photobucket. com/albums/ rr335/rsfireAE86

> /n_a.jpg[/IMG]

> > thanks for helping

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

>

------------ --------- --------- ------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Bob,
 
I would guess the fb hatch came from the same place mine came from, since I've
never seen them anywhere else.  There was a group buy on this site a few years
ago by a guy in the UK, I believe, selling FB hatches.  For some reason very
few people were interested.
 
I would trade a new, unpainted one for a complete JDM facelifted rear bumper
setup.
 
Jim

--- On Tue, 12/29/09, Bob Campbell <bobc80829@...> wrote:


From: Bob Campbell <bobc80829@...>
Subject: RE: [323GTX] Re: my 323 history
To: "'azgtx'" <azgtx@...>, 323gtx@yahoogroups.com, "Mo Ahten"
<moahten@...>
Date: Tuesday, December 29, 2009, 8:06 PM


 



Sorry for the slow reply, haven't read mail for quite a while.

Paul did sell his Group A knuckles and struts. I bought them as spares for my
rally car, an old Group A car from Wales. This Robinson guy would be Doug
Robinson. He had a 1.8 powered GTX for a while.

I also have the carbon hood off of Pauls dead car and a fiberglass rear hatch.
Can't remember if the hatch came from Paul or not?

Bob C.

--- On Thu, 12/17/09, Mo Ahten <moahten@hotmail. com> wrote:

From: Mo Ahten <moahten@hotmail. com>
Subject: RE: [323GTX] Re: my 323 history
To: "'azgtx'" <azgtx@yahoo. com>, 323gtx@yahoogroups. com
Date: Thursday, December 17, 2009, 6:08 PM

 

There also used to be a guy name Robinson, I think the first name was Chip

or John.

Paul may have sold the knuckles after the huge crash he had when he

destroyed his "yellow" car.

I know that Mike Welch cut it up and mounted the remnants on his shop wall.

I saw it their one time.

Everyone at that race wrote their own little comment with a sharpie on the

totaled machine.

It would be good to hear from Paul, does anyone know what he's been doing

lately?

M-

-----Original Message-----

From: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com [mailto:323gtx@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of

azgtx

Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 4:40 PM

To: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com

Subject: [323GTX] Re: my 323 history

Likely Group A knuckles and hubs.

Clay

--- In 323gtx@yahoogroups. com, "gbartt" <gbar@...> wrote:

>

> Well they are 5-bolt hubs...

>

> --- In 323gtx@yahoogroups. com, Marc Feigitsch <mfeigitsch@ > wrote:

> >

> > Hi,

> > I don't know much about your car, but I did see it on the Redline

> show.  In the ad, it says that it has second gen RX-7 hubs, etc. 

> Does anyone know if these are a pretty straight forward swap or is a

> lot of work involved?

> > Thanks,

> > Marc

> >

> >

> >

> > ____________ _________ _________ __

> > From: ross_steensland ross_steensland@

> > To: 323gtx@yahoogroups. com

> > Sent: Wed, December 16, 2009 7:00:11 PM

> > Subject: [323GTX] my 323 history

> >

> > Â

> > Just wondering if anyone may know some history of my gtx i just

> > picked

> up. It's the red and white one on the homepage. I've got all the info

> back to 2005 then there's nothing. I read a little that it might be

> one of Paul Timmermans old cars, just wondering if anyone knows about it.

> > here's the link to when it was being sold a few owners ago:

> >

> http://www.racecarm agazine.com/ ForSale/AdDetail s.asp?Ad_ ID=5767&Ad= for

> -S\

> ale-rally-prepped- Mazda-323GTX- SoCal

> >

> > here's some pics:

> > [IMG]http://i497. photobucket. com/albums/ rr335/rsfireAE86

> /1201091303. jpg[/IMG]

> >

> > [IMG]http://i497. photobucket. com/albums/ rr335/rsfireAE86

> /1210091553. jpg[/IMG]

> >

> > [IMG]http://i497. photobucket. com/albums/ rr335/rsfireAE86

> /1210091558. jpg[/IMG]

> >

> > here's one of the old pics, the one from the homepage here

> > [IMG]http://i497. photobucket. com/albums/ rr335/rsfireAE86

> /n_a.jpg[/IMG]

> > thanks for helping

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

>

------------ --------- --------- ------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Top left on the relay board under the dash. What a thrill to get to!

Why do you say "actuators" with an "S"? You should only have an actuator on
the passenger side, not the driver's side.

Bob

On Tue, Dec 29, 2009 at 11:59 PM, indistyx <indistyx@...> wrote:

>
>
> I went through my broken electric locks today to check if the actuators
> actually worked. I pulled them out and checked them on a good power source
> (charger) and they both worked! I guess I'll need to find the relay and
> heard it is somewhere under the dash. Can anyone lead me to its location, so
> that I can pull it out when I get time? Meanwhile, I disconnected the
> actuators from the lock rod....ahhh, sweet....easy locking without the fear
> of breaking my key off....may just keep them disconnected!
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I went through my broken electric locks today to check if the actuators actually
worked. I pulled them out and checked them on a good power source (charger) and
they both worked! I guess I'll need to find the relay and heard it is somewhere
under the dash.  Can anyone lead me to its location, so that I can pull it out
when I get time?  Meanwhile, I disconnected the actuators from the lock
rod....ahhh, sweet....easy locking without the fear of breaking my key
off....may just keep them disconnected!